Since my last epistle, London has been bestowed, via the Michelin-star bunny, with numerous new twinkling droppings, sending booking systems wild. One star went to Gymkhana, shooting one’s odds of a last-minute Friday night venison keema naan down to ‘more chance of a heavy petting session with Tom Hardy’ level. One each for City Social, Bubbledogs’ Kitchen Table, Fera and The Clove Club. A star, too, for my beloved Barrafina, leading me to ponder whether joining the now hopelessly long queue, waving a grenade, would be ‘unethical’. As Sartre said, ‘Hell is other people.’ And although he didn’t mean ‘other people discovering your favourite restaurant’, he certainly would have if he’d showed up at Barrafina to find one hundred berks before him in the queue for ham croquettes.
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